The cups should be, theoretically, a little bit too big to get the friction needed for a nice press-fit. My best advice at this point is to get some calipers and start measuring. (American BB shells are also supposed to be 68mm aka 2.68" from left to right, but i've seen a lot of variation here, with shells off by a few mm, but this won't matter for most cranks.) While I've only seen these with 3 bolts in the past, you are basically right that all American BB shells are s'posed to be the same ID (2.02" or 51.3mm), although I have found that tolerances can be pretty crude (some will be a little tight or a little loose) I've always been able to press them in. I just installed some Redline Flights on my Triple S, and while they're a bit pricey, they look awesome and they're stiff as can be. Get yourself some of those Sunday Saker cranks they're cheap and ppl seem to like'm. If you get an external-bearing road crank, it's pretty straightforward, but chainline is not adjustable plus you gotta run the sprocket on the inside of the spider which works fine, but it gives the bike a no-talent hack-job kinda look (and yeah, I've sported bikes like that.so i speak from experience). If you go with a more modern external bearing set-up, you'll find that chainline for the MTB-type cranks is far too outboar (and not adjustable). you're going to have to research it, google it, do some math to make it all fit your application, and then it still might take some trial and error. But, if you go with a square-taper type of crank/bb (and most RRB types do), then you're going to be wondering what length spindle to get, and you re gonna be PO'd when you realize that these things aren't standardized. Going with the euro adaptor and a thread-in BB/crank is totally workable, and it ain't bad, and it's not even all that weak if properly installed. I've got 3-piece cranks on a couple different bikes with american-sized shells, and RRB is littered with hundreds of posts about it. Even better, you have a lot of adjustability in the chainline with a BMX crank, which is weird b/c BMX set-ups tend to have standard chainline, but it's an awesome surprise advantage.Ī lot of folks go 3-piece on their cruisers. OTOH, tubular chromo 3-piece cranks, like they use in bmx, you've got very sgtrong and stiff cranks that are designed to work in a BB set without a bolt-in adaptor. Even if you're running the most bomb-proof mtb/dh cranks, your BB interface is weakened via the use of the adaptor- more parts, more bolts, more things to flex and wiggle. The only reason I tend to avoid this is b/c it's a kludgey solution where, in the end, your crank set-up will be weaker. There really isn't much more too it since the american BB is such a universal standard that hasn't changed in decades.And then just thread in whatever MTB/road/Track-type Euro BB to mount the cranks. and the bikes were mostly designed for the 175 cranks.ġ70s might be your preference, too if you want to have more clearance, faster pedaling, etc.ĭans, colored tuffs, ebay all offer great quality crank sets for 90 to 110, just do some shopping and take your time and make sure the BB matches the cranks. On size, an older bike will do well with 175s, assuming you are an average size Joe.ġ80s tend to drag the ground unless you are on a very large bike.īITD it was folks that considered themselves powerhouses or extra tall that ran 180s but they just don't work well for most of us. There are variations for the diameter of the bearings and spindle so go with a brand that matches your cranks. you just have to get the correct BB to match the cranks and spindle. You'll see most all cranks will fit an American BB. So now go to Dan's comp and do some research on the various cranks. The same size BB as bikes going way back even the Stingrays had the same size. I'm confident your old school bike has an American Bottom Bracket. I'll help you get back to the original point, maybe.
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